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{ Category Archives } Life in the Philippines

Humor

Filipino humor is a special sort of gem. It’s a gem that stays dusty, flawed and chipped – but it’s still a gem, to people who can appreciate it.

A shining example is the Filipino term usapang lasing (literally, drunken talk) which gives birth to crude, mind-boggling jokes that make sense only to the heavily intoxicated. Usapang lasing sessions are mostly held over bottles of Red Horse, late in the evening, between a cluster of friends and pulutan.

We may also be familiar with the term kwentong barbero (literally, barber stories), which gives me the impression that barbers in the Philippines, those who aren’t gay, are simply dead-bored with their jobs that they spin bogus, out-of-this-world stories to their unwilling barbershop victims to pass the time – making the customers wonder if the barber is indeed a mentally-ill patient who has managed to escape his cell. Hence, the term kwentong barbero.

***

Back in college there was a yearly tradition of Streetpainting, where students were allowed to paint the street (duh) in front of the AS building. Being Fine Arts students, this was something to look forward to, mostly because the walls of the Fine Arts building were already covered with so much graffiti that there was hardly any more space to even write down one’s name. This was also an excellent opportunity to not go home, to hang out with friends, to vandalize the “conyo street”, and to maybe eat tapsilog at Rodic’s as soon as it opened for the day, given that we had enough money for breakfast.

While waiting for the paint to dry, the usapang lasing started. “Do you want to buy eyedrops?” someone asked, lazily. “For only one peso.” He paused, then delivered the punchline we all knew. “Pero may problema, mehn… roll-on!” (”there’s a problem though, it comes in a roll-on bottle”)

Between groans and jeers of “We already know that one!” and “Get a life!”and “Ang baduy mo, ha” and “Tangina mo” someone followed it up. “What about a helicopter, do you want to buy a helicopter?”

“How much?” chimed in one student, the beer obviously getting to her.

“Ten pesos!”

Only ten pesos?” someone asked encouragingly, from the other side of the street.

“Oo! Pero may problema, yung katawan yung umiikot, hindi yung elisi!” (”It’s the body that turns, not the propellers”)

An hour later, everyone was rolling over in laughter, either stoned, drunk or sober, rolling over the paint, rolling over the grass, rolling around everywhere. (”Gusto mo ng kotse? Kaya lang yung windshield, may grado!” “Gusto mo ng stockings? Kaya lang baggy!” “Gusto mo ng trabaho? Taga-hila ka ng elevator!” “Gusto mo ng lion? Kaya lang yung buhok niya, one-length!”) The laughter had reached maniacal proportions. The jokes weren’t even funny anymore, we were just letting the mood and alcohol and the moon take over what came out of our mouths and were finding it, well, hilarious. Students from other colleges looked at us like we were mad. “It figures,” they probably sniffed self-righteously, “they’re from Fine Arts, and they think they’re cool.” Of course we weren’t cool – we were just pathetically happy.

***

Conan O’Brien’s humor is probably the closest the West has ever gotten to Filipino humor. His humor is condescending, crude, and very self-depricating. Any Filipino would appreciate him.

***

I have to admit, it was hard getting Julien to “get” my jokes during the first few months of marriage.

“Hey, do you want to buy a rocking chair?” I said to him one day.

“From whom?” he asked.

“It doesn’t matter. It only costs 2 euros.”

He turned to look at me. I started to giggle, because I’m a very bad joke-teller: I always start laughing at my own jokes before delivering the punchline. “But there’s a problem,” I said between guffaws. “It comes with a grandmother!” (May kasamang lola, in Filipino – which is funnier I think). I ended up laughing by myself. It was one of those uncomfortable moments when you hear your laughter hang in the air.

“Don’t you get it? You don’t think it’s funny? Ok… do you want to buy eyedrops?”

“This is n’importe quoi,” he shot me down.

And this is how my “Do you want to buy…but there’s a problem” series of jokes died.

***

I gave it another try a few days later. “Listen,” I told him, opting for a kwentong barbero now. “There are two men, coming home from a drinking session. They’re really drunk, and one of them sees dogshit on the road. Look man, one says, it’s chocolate. The other says, No it isn’t, it’s shit. They argue about it until they agree to taste it. The man who tasted it says, You were right, it’s shit. Good thing I didn’t step on it.” I burst out laughing.

“This is not very funny,” said Julien.

This frustrated me to no end. “Why don’t you tell me a joke then?”

He said, “Ok, I read one the other day. A priest, a doctor and an engineer were at the golf course, waiting for their turn because there was a slow group of golfers playing at the moment. So they ask one of the staff why these golfers were so slow. Oh, they are a group of blind firefighters, we let them play here for free because they lost their sight after trying to save our clubhouse from a fire. So the priest says, This is sad. I will pray for them tonight. And the doctor says, I will contact my opthalmologist to see if there’s anything he can do for them. And the engineer says, Why don’t they play at night?” At that, he looked at me triumphantly, and chuckled.

“This is not a joke, this is too intellectual!” I hollered (although I did get it, and found it funny, but in a Reader’s Digest’s Laughter is the Best Medicine sort of way).

“At least, it does not involve human trafficking.” Obviously, the thought of selling a grandmother along with a rocking chair still bothered him. “It is because engineers think this way, which is the funny part,” said my husband, the engineer.

Four years later, a healthy dose of exposure to my brothers and friends who are champions of kwentong barbero, numerous trips to the Philippines and a growing knowledge of Tagalog, Julien now manages to “get” Filipino jokes, occasionally rolling his eyes over punchlines, and seeing the beauty of n’importe quoi which Filipinos love so much.

I mean, for a country whose President is a joke, why not laugh?

*n’importe quoi = kalokohan

Links:

  • After months of hiatus, the newest PINOYexpats issue is online, so go see!
  • Also, for music reviews from someone who lives for music, go to DarkGlobe (only in French, though). Thank you, L, for my Currently Listening to :-)

An End Has a Start - EDITION LIMITEE - DigipackCurrently listening to:
The Editors
An End Has A Start

No sex in this city

First night in Manila, jetlagged and hungover, Jul, my brother Paolo and I went to Metrowalk to look at pirated stuff.

As always, the vendors were harassing everyone by shouting “ANO PO YUN, SIR, MA’AM? DIBIDEE? DIBIDEE!” at ear-shattering level.

I was trying to look for the 6th season of Sex and the City, and was probably muttering under my breath when an eager-looking vendor came up to me, chirping, “Ma’am, ano po iyon?”

I asked her, “Er, do you have Sex and the City episodes?”

“Meron po!” she answered in the affirmative, and led me to her little booth.

“Anong season po, ma’am?” she looked like a boxer about to enter the ring: a very determined expression on her face.

I asked for the 6th season.

She started riffling through her dvds while I waited patiently. After a few minutes: “Ay, ma’am, wala po,” she said.

“Ok, what about the 5th season?”

More riffling.

Sadder expression: “Wala rin po.”

“Er… 4th?”

She looked half-heartedly at her dvd stock and didn’t even check. “Ay, ma’am, wala po.”

Silence.

I squinted at her. I swear to god she squinted back at me.

Carefully, I asked her: “Do you have Sex and the City episodes?”

Almost immediately she answered, “Ay, wala po.”

At this point, an amused Julien choked with laughter.

The girl, probably not appreciating being laughed at, pointed vaguely to another stall. “Pero dun po, may sex doon!”

Paolo, interested : “Where?”

Gritting my teeth, I left Dory with her imaginary dvd episodes and walked to another vendor. “Excuse me,” I asked the guy behind the counter. “Do you have Sex and the City episodes?”

The guy looked at me, then Julien, and hesitantly opened his porn folder.

“Er… it’s not porn. Sex and the City? The HBO series?”

He put his folder away and leaned his elbows on the counter again. “Wala po.”

And that is why I’m spending four times more to get the episodes here in France.

PS. I passed Dory on the way out. I swear she forgot who I was, because she called out, “Ma’am, dibidees?”

People are people

Manila July 2005

Lets bagets

I didn’t get to do a lot of things in Manila, which I bitterly regret, like eating fishballs in my beloved Alma Mater UP Naming Mahal, or meeting more friends, or even setting foot in Makati (except for the time I went to Saguijo, but that was at midnight so it doesn’t really matter). I didn’t go malling enough, although I’m not really a maller, because Shopping Is Evil.

I did get to do some interesting stuff, though. Like hang out at 77 (in fact, 40% of the time that I wasn’t at my parent’s home was spent at 77, with Doy the Lethal Man Behind The Bar Who Refuses To Make Frappucino For Those Who Order It).

Gig
One of the things in my to-do list was to watch Bagetsafonik play (I’ve been a loyal “Le Support” member of their Yahoo! Groups for a year now, considering I hadn’t heard a single song until that night, and even though I am still baffled by their name).

Before Jul and I left Manila for France, we were at 77 (what’s new?) listening to Marcus, Doy, Ace, and Tom aka Partyjesus make plans about their “band”. In a state of delirium they talked of their plans, congratulating themselves in advance and slapping each other on the back and thinking of all the sexy roadie chicks they could score once they made it big.

Well boys, all your dreams have come true — an EP coming out, fame, fortune(?), recognition, Yahoo! Group members … all this and more

…’cept for the roadie chicks, haha!

Party Manimals
If you’re interested to watch them play one of these days, check out their page here. To hire them to play for your Bar Mitzvahs, Hillbilly Open Forums and Witchcraft sessions, Bernie, their lurvely manager, is the person to get in touch with. She was attacked by The Dreadful Shingles while we were there, but I think she is no longer contaminated.

Plugging plugging,
Kala

Sleeping without Grace

Before I regal you with tales of my Manila trip, I should get these pictures out of the way.

Speaking of graceless sleepers, here is a picture of the famous new dog, Son of Zorro, Butsog, who wants to share a picture of his balls to each and everyone of you, with Love:

This is how he sleeps. Seriously.

This dog has numerous annoying habits, it’s amazing. He is an Elbow-Licker. My mother, who is a kind soul but a bit too accomodating when it comes to Zorro and Butsog, sighs that Butsog is “so sweet” each time he licks our elbows while eating.

He also likes to charge and jump at you, muddy or wet paws and all, ONLY WHEN YOU’RE WEARING A WHITE SHIRT. Once I was wearing a black shirt and jeans, and he just stared at me and sniffed disdainfully.

He does have one talent, and that is his ability to make his ears disappear.

Zorro, however, is still a grumpy old fart.

77

Good Lord, I miss 77. In case you’ve never heard of 77, you’re corny. Since it was so close to our home in QC, we often used to go there. Too often for it to resemble the set of Cheers. We had our after-wedding party there, which was so memorable because it was like a party in your own living room. Doi the barman, if ever you get to read this, this is a bit late I know but we had a wonderful party, thank you! I am putting a picture of us in honour of 77 and its magical chocolate milkshakes.


Now-defunct cast of Cheers (with Doi the barman)

This weekend we were planning to throw a party but the only answers to our party animal calls were answering machines. And no, I haven’t seen the Matrix, as only one cinema in the whole of Lyon is showing the original version, but there are no tears in my eyes because it doesn’t sound so good anyway. And I was hopelessly lost on the second one.

I am happy to report that I am starting to understand more and more French, therefore I can follow – a bit – the conversations going on around me. I’ve finished a story in French, entitled Euclid le Chat et la Fleur Horrible, which I am sure to post here soon because I’m so damn proud of these three paragraphs I’ve created (Euclid, by the way, is the name of my future cat). Also, my French lessons are going pretty well, although I need to be less shy of speaking with other people, as my accent is horrendous. Yesterday an old lady was waiting by the door to enter the building because she couldn’t find her keys in the dark (she was wearing dark glasses at 6 in the evening, I suppose that’s the reason) and, being your stereotypical old lady, immersed herself in a healthy dose of conversation with me wholly in French. And I’ve come to an important discovery during my conversation with her…

I have discovered that I have a gift for nodding, smiling and replying “Oui” or “Bien sur” just at the right moments. Go, Kala, go!

Dusty stones and dirty dogs

Days are moving quicker, especially now; I’ve kept very quiet about it but there are so much things to think about and so many things to do that as an antithesis to it all I simply find myself falling to bed and falling asleep at once.

But to wake up sometime is a good idea: everything moves and I feel like I’m watching someone else getting ready, a move to France, a move to new lives, staring under bright lights at circles on my hand, trying to figure out which one is best, which one is for keeps.

What people don’t know is that three years ago in Marinduque Julien and I exchanged dusty stones at the foot of the old antique house we were staying in. This was the closest thing to perfection, that afternoon in a foreign island where people spoke a different language, where he and I were the only ones who understood what we wanted to say. A dirty dog watched our little exchange from the corner, scratching himself behind his ear, urgently. Like I said, the perfect engagement.

Makati City Rules

Self-Diagnosis: It has taken me up to 25-minutes of leisurely stretching in bed before getting up, proving fatal for punctuality reports. Have tripled amount of nicotine, despite sweetheart’s campaign to “Stop Smoking Soon”.

But soon, we will.

Sub-entry: The Flying Mouse

This mouse has been culprit of disturbing the peace in our abode. He/she has danced the Macarena across the keyboard of Julien’s laptop while we were watching ‘Metropolis’ (please watch this… it’s A+!) and has raided our basket of candy.

We have caught him, on numerous occasions, dawdling like His Majesty on his way to the lawn for crumpets and tea. He would have been cute if not for likeness to a hairy, brown, rubbery-nosed little rodent — which, by the way, he is.

I bought Julien those delicious thin chocolate Lindt squares. The mouse thought it was good, promptly chewing up one side of the box.

And as we thought it couldn’t get any worse, I awoke one morning to see him on top of our table. Walking around, as usual. Our eyes met and locked (never shall I forget his cold, rodent stare) and to my surprise, he JUMPED to the floor and scurried away. I swear I almost blacked out.

Yesterday night though, it stumbled upon an open plastic bag of our McDonald’s leftovers. Julien watched it enter the bag, then quickly tied it up once the tail disappeared inside, trapping the mouse in. We threw it over the fence at the empty lot.

This story to be filed as Reason No. 8342 in the Why I Love Julien Series.

***

A grave injustice has been done. Discrimination. We are being treated like criminals, lepers.

Our building has been declared to be “TOTALLY SMOKE-FREE” effective today. We are not even allowed to smoke at the 6th floor parking lot anymore. We are not allowed to smoke in the restrooms or within office premises. Will we risk the who-knows-how-much-they’ll-charge fine for smoking in the streets? Do they not even have the decency to provide employees with a smoking area that complies with all the rules of the new anti-smoking law?

Today, the Makati City Anti-Smoking Ordinance No. 2002-090 has stripped me of my rights and my dignity as a smoker, and I am being shunned by a society that looks down on my rightful habit to light a cigarette. My freedom has been taken away from me. There is no more escape, the very fleeting yet important 10-minute shangri-la, from the harsh grinding reality of corporate life.

We have been nicotine-raped! And we do not have justice on our side!

Mister Jeepney

You are NOT Filipino if you haven’t ridden a jeepney during the rainy season. Nine people squeezed into a horizontal plank, all holding dripping wet umbrellas and bags, is NOT a good way to start your day, but that’s as Pinoy as you can get. Oxygen was never meant to enter a jeepney, and I believe it was built to elude the concept of “personal space”. In fact, riding a jeepney on a very rainy and bad day is equivalent to group rape. With a participation fee of 4 pesos. And a driver.

To pay my homage to the jeepney, here are some of the Written and Unwritten Rules about riding the Most Dreaded Transportation On Earth:

1. The best seats in the jeepney are the front seats. Just be sure to move your legs away from the stick shift (cambio in Filipino), especially if the driver’s a maniac.

2. The second best seats in the jeepney are the seats closest to the door (or should I say “hole”, since it isn’t a really a door). This may also be known as the WORST seat, though, as the sabits (or the guys who hang onto the door when there are no seats available) decide to stick the crooks of their arms into your face. Breeeathe, sugar, breeeathe.

3. There are a number of ways to stop a jeepney, and they are

(a) shouting PARA HO!!! at the top of your lungs and praying to the saints in heaven that the driver will hear you before continuing, clueless of your desire to get off, all the way to Antipolo;
(b) knocking your knuckles against the aluminum jeepney roof, although this is considered unflattering; (c) pulling on a string that stretches from the middle of the jeep roof all the way to the driver.

Letter (c) is funny though, since you’ll never know what you’re going to get – most of the time it’s a corny tune like Baa Baa Black Sheep, or a buzz similar to that of an electric chair. Sometimes though, it’s soundless and the jeepney miraculously stops, making me wonder where exactly that string is connected. Eew.

4. You are required to pass along the fare of fellow passengers if you are within arm’s length. I’ve seen fare being passed along by a total of five people before reaching the driver. It was a very long jeepney, I believe they were two jeepney bodies molded into one.

5. However, if you are in a foul mood as I usually am, you can refuse to pass along someon’s fare by turning your head to the window and/or by pretending to fall asleep, and/or scowling very menacingly and glaring till the person passes the fare to someone else. Don’t expect to win popularity votes, though.

6. A jeepney usually takes 9 people to fit in one row. Obviously, the person who measured the seats’ length believed that all passengers possessed the body size of Gwenyth Paltrow or Twiggy, effectively eliminating the more heavy-set passengers from their magnificent calculations. Therefore, there is a 97% chance that one passenger in the jeepney will be sitting half-a-butt on the seat. If you are unfortunate enough to be the Phantom Passenger (as I affectionately peg it), good luck, and be sure to dig those heels deep into the floor!

7. All jeepney drivers went to the School for Bad Musical Taste. Musical selections range from slow rock (Michael Learns to Rock to Bon Jovi), to Pinoy Rap (including S2upid Love et al), to sentimental crap you wish you never heard again (A-ya-yay Pag-Ibig, et al), to horrifying disco beats. All are played at maximum volume. Of course, maximum volume! You wouldn’t graduate from School for Bad Musical Taste without learning the importance of maximum volume.

8. All jeepney drivers passed the Are You Cheesy Enough School of Interior Decorating. Magna cum laudes are not difficult to spot – they are the ones that have decorated their jeepneys with disco balls that actually work, speakers under the seats, and black lights that make everyone’s teeth glow green.

9. It is surprising how, given the conditions, jeepney passengers are able to unwittingly avoid eye contact. It is also surprising the number of jeepney passengers who insist on making eye contact. To choose the lesser evil, please do not maintain eye contact. It is considered rude.

10. It is also considered rude to read your neighbor’s cellphone, or reading someone’s received sms message, in the jeepney.

11. Jeepney drivers will most likely start the motor while you are still getting off the jeepney. Lithe bodies are required to get off. Only after having walked three steps away from the jeepney will you be assured that you are, finally, safe.

12. Some people pull the jeepney trick of not paying. Have you ever done this? (Don’t act so innocent) This is done by sitting very quietly at the end of the jeepney, and getting down as quietly as possible at a popular stop, where most people go down. Do not draw attention to yourself, look as if you’ve paid the fare. Very silently. Like the snake you are.

13. Jeepney drivers can be classified into the following categories:

(a) The ones that do not care about you – they start driving before you get into your seat/before you get off the jeepney.
(b) The ones that care too much – they make small talk and repeat, cheerfully, over and over to levels of irritation, that there are 3 more seats available. They also address female passengers as “Miss Beautiful”; for example: “There’s one more seat on the right, scoot over, let Miss Beautiful have a seat, there ya go Miss Beautiful.”
(c) The ones that are deaf – No matter how many times you shout, plead, pull on the string, they will drop you off half a mile from your stop, unapologetically might I add.

If it sounds like I detest riding jeepneys or that riding them are like walking towards death with open eyes, I don’t mean it that way. I’ve had fantastic jeepney rides – sitting on top a jeepney in Camiguin with baskets of fruit, bouncing across a crowded jeepney on a dirt road to the Underground River, having a whole jeepney to myself during Holy Friday. The worst jeepney rides and conditions take place in Manila, but hell, it’s the only reliable mode of transport we have, and since I’ve survived every single ride I’ve taken, that doesn’t give much reason to stop riding them now. Until I learn to drive. Pray for my driver’s exam.

Allez

The latest French word I’ve learned is ‘donc’, a conjugation, which means ‘therefore’. Donc, I use this word whenever I can. Also in my vocabulary is the French word for ‘go’, which is ‘aller’. I’m brushing up on some French as my boyfriend asks me again and again why I say ‘ko’ instead of ‘ako’, and what’s the use of all the -mag, -um, and -nag verbs anyway?

To my chagrin I can’t answer, maybe because sometimes when you’ve spoken something you’ve been used to for so long it becomes impossible to make distinctions. And yes, of course I’m making up an excuse for my poor Filipino grammar!

During Holy Week somewhere along the crowded Burnham Park there was a man peddling a corny silver tool thing, the Filipino version of the Swiss Army Knife if you will. I was looking at the strawberries and Julien insisted we get the army knife as a ‘tool’. The other morning we used it to put a vagabond screw back into his laptop.

Rule number one : Tools are useful!

He has a nice formal coat – big, black, Mao-collared. It looks distinguised and strong, invincibility in a suit. It looks darling, the way it hangs next to my size-one jeans. His stuff occupy approximately one-eighth of our cabinet. My tiny pairs of shoes seem numerous compared to his Vans and black boots.

He smokes more than I do, if not as much, but his lips remain a sweet red, his gums a sweet red, perfect white teeth. He’s getting thinner, so last night we sat infront of his laptop and visited pictures of him when he was sixteen, six, twenty, twenty-two. Various hair lengths, same sailor shirt. The eyes seem to get older but the intensity never wavers. When we’re done watching his pictures, I still think he’s thin.

“We’re the thin couple,” he said because I’m thin too and definitely underweight.

Last Saturday was my birthday. I’m twenty-four now. I got drunk and went to bed in the middle of my own party. I didn’t even notice the guests leave. Woke up late with a hangover on Sunday. On Sunday night I attached myself to his leg and told him I wouldn’t let go. We played a bit of cards and he tried to walk around as much as he could with me on his leg. I got bored and let go, and he promptly attached himself to my leg and we crawled all over the floor, from bedroom to kitchen, to prove his point. And then we tried to find my point of balance, as he raised me on my stomach with his legs until I fell and I guess I have no point of balance. Afterwards we watched Labyrinth, David Bowie singing “Dance, magic, dance…” in his skin-tight leggings, along with singing puppets.

Did I mention I just turned twenty-four…?

We bought a saucepan and he made crepes – sausage crepes, butter-and-sugar crepes, jam-and-butter crepes. I flipped them over in the pan and it was warm and it smelled like crepes and we opened the windows to let the smell out of our apartment, even though it smelled so good.

Lesson Number Two: Crepes smell like heaven.

The nights, they’re cool and comfortable, even in summer. I was never able to sleep with a bit of light on; now, when Julien leaves the door a notch to let some light into our bedroom, I don’t mind one bit.

Sometimes before we go to sleep he’d push his toe against my foot, or I’d scratch the palm of his hand till the motion made me feel sleepy. And while he sleeps I’ll walk around the apartment holding a pink pillow but I’ll always, always go back to him and scratch his palm or hug his arm till the motion makes me sleepy.

At the office I want so much for the work day to end because it feels like I’m starting a new one when I see him.

And maybe there isn’t much to say, and maybe my life sounds boring right now, no wild parties to talk about or no poetry laced with marijuana, but sometimes you have to feel like you’re home. And I do. On the way back to Baguio in a cramped bus at three a.m. in the morning, I curled myself up into a question mark trying to sleep, hoping to get home soon. And all I had to do was lean my head on his shoulder to know that I had home sitting right beside me.

I’m learning possessive pronouns now. Lesson 6.1 in my French grammar review book. Le mien, les miens, le tien, les tiens, le notre, les notres. Mine, yours, ours. Singular and plural.

Lesson number three: It’s nice to be like grammar…

And still I’ll wait till I speak it fluently, and in between it’s nice to fall asleep scratching someone’s hand, and it’s nice to wake up still sleepy, and it’s nice to run Mao-collared jackets between your fingers and it’s nice to eat a pear in the evenings.

I suppose life’s just nice.

Things have happened and sometimes you shouldn’t let things get in the way of love. It’s so harmful when that happens. Sometimes, wrong comes out of wanting so much to be right, or mistakes are just the right intentions carried out askew. I don’t feel like dwelling much anymore on who hurt whom or what destroyed what. It’s just a matter of being in the moment, of getting through it no matter how difficult. You know?

The simplest words make the greatest sense. Donc, allez.